Phnom Penh

We departed HCMC for Phnom Penh (PP) aboard a luxury bus. This was much more pleasant than previous bus rides as there were only 3 seats across and large arm rests. And apart from two pairs of annoying Chinese and Argentinian tourists as well as a scetchy border crossing the trip was very comforatable.

Arriving in PP we immediately noticed how much dirtier and poorer it was than its large Vietnamese counterpart. We were forwarned but still unprepared for the throngs of children/war vets/ landmine victims who swarmed us upon stepping off the bus. A short tuk-tuk ride swept us to our hotel which had the most amazing salt water pool.

Our first day was spent exploring the city on foot an expedition that included: the mall rooftop roller rink (somebody skated off the roof only a few months ago), the Russian Market (cheap shit abounds), and one of the many disabled persons craft shops (Joe's bracketed comment withheld).

Following a traditional Cambodian meal we decided to go for dessert at Happy Herbs Pizza (you can imagine what 'Herbs' refers to). We ordered our pizza 'happy HAPPY' to ensure we would get the most out of the experience. Results were mixed, although we both sat without talking while staring off into oblivion for the better part of an hour.

While enjoying the after glow of our meal we were approached by a tuk-tuk driver named David (likely not his real name) and we arranged for him to tour us around the city the next day for $20 CAN: probably too much).

The following day we first visited the Choeung Ek Killing Fields and we were lucky to arrive early enough that we had the site to ourselves. Hearing children's laughter from a nearby school and watching butterflies float above the ground while viewing bone and clothing poking out of the earth was much to take in.

We followed this with a visit to Tuol Sleng Museum (S-21), a former high school that was used as a torture camp during the rule of the Khmer Rouge during the 1970's. This offered disturbing insight into what human beings are capable of. Most of the former classrooms have been left as they were when they were discovered housing only a rusty bed, chains and blood stains on the floor.

After a lengthy poolside respite we headed back to Happy Herbs for the second consecutive night. Again we saw David and we invited him to join us for a drink. David talked candidly about Cambodia and his perception of the country which was very interesting b/c it allied closely to our views. After one drink turned into several and following persistent harassment from the begging community we decided to call it a night.

Upon returning to the hotel, Joe and David decided that they were keen for more action. Nicole wisely decided to let the boys go out and play. After leaving the hotel David stopped outside a local bar (and I mean LOCAL). He told me to go in and order a drink and he would return shortly with 'adult refreshments'. Upon taking a seat on the patio I took in my surroundings. I noticed that there were only five patrons - one of which was me and all of whom were male - and thirty or so servers - all of whom were female and most of whom were eighteen. My drink order was taken by three servers, who all joined me at my table when my drink arrived. Many awkward minutes ensued as I waited for David and attempted to delay any discussion of prices/services that may/may not have been available. Thankfully David returned and proceeded to thrash me at pool (although I speculate my poor play was due in part to the many 'whore hands' that were constantly rubbing my chest and beard). When David was completely drunk we decided it was probably time for him to drive me home. We shared a hug and he drove across the street to set up his hammock to sleep it off.

Next stop Siem Reap.

Bye for Now,

Joe and Nicole